2020 Krettnacher Euchariusberg Spatlese 'Mammen' 13 21

Issuing from vines in the Gross Schock sector with the nickname Ternes (which now appears in fine print on the label), the 2020 Riesling Krettnacher Euchariusberg Spätlese A.P. #14 leads with a faintly musky and prickly nose suggestive of lemon peel, sage and cassis leaf. I suspect these traits might point to a bit of botrytis having been involved, though also to a temporarily slightly reduced state. Ripe peach with peach kernel and huckleberry piquancy inform a palpably dense midpalate, and the combination of piquant elements, reprised prickle, and emerging stoniness lends the sustained finish a certain austerity that one wouldn’t anticipate from a residually sweet Spätlese. But then, apropos of “sweet,” this harbors around the same residual sugar as one of the Webers’ Kabinetts of this vintage, and, if anything, it comes off as slightly drier. It definitely deserves revisiting (especially considering the sensational performance of the vintage 2019 installment), and I wouldn’t invest too much confidence in my tentative quantified prognosis of its aging potential.