2014 Pinot Noir Eoin

The 2014 Pinot Noir Eoin Sonoma Stage Vineyard is a wild, powerful wine. The inclusion of 33% whole clusters gives the wine its distinctive savory profile. Red cherry, scorched earth, tobacco, game and smoke give the wine its decidedly dark, brooding personality. That element of burliness is reinforced by slightly coarse tannins and a rough around the edges feel. I expect the Eoin will come around, but it will be a few years before that happens.

DuMol's 2014 Pinot Noir Eoin Sonoma Stage Vineyard is bright, focused and wonderfully delineated throughout. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, cloves, gravel, sage, tobacco and licorice are all very much alive in the glass. Tense, salivating, the 2014 is built on a serious core of energy. The intensely aromatic and savory finish only adds to the wine's considerable allure. This windy site planted on organic soils yields wines of character and personality.

The 2009 Pinot Noir Eoin Stage Vineyard is gorgeous. Black cherries, tobacco, leather, licorice and violets are some of the notes that flow from this taut Pinot. There is an energy and sheer vibrancy to the Eoin that is immensely appealing. The balance of fruit and structure is compelling. This is a fabulous showing. The clones at Stage are Calera and Swan. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees.