2018 Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Zesty lime, cassis, fennel and cress on the nose introduce a palate presence of uncommon concentration for the vintage. The feel is firm but not hard, full but not heavy, and the wine’s prominent piquant elements – including a note of huckleberry – never shade into outright bitterness, but instead form an impressive part of its gripping, stone-saturated persistence. At two-and-a-half grams of residual sugar, this is the driest of Schäfer-Fröhlichs vintage 2018 Grosse Gewächse, which adds to its overall sense of austerity. But it should be fascinating to follow and will hopefully become a bit more ingratiating in the process. Its extreme dryness notwithstanding, Fröhlich noted that this wine was halting in fermentation, which it needed a month longer than his other Grosse Gewächse to complete. That might account for some backwardness in bottle when I tasted in late November 2019. I feel compelled, though, to make readers aware that this is one among many instances in the case of Schäfer-Fröhlich where my assessment, positive though it may be, is out of step with the absolutely rapturous reception from certain prominent fellow critics, especially those based in Germany.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The 2018 Kupfergrube Riesling GG is clear and precise on the aromatic nose that displays enormously ripe and concentrated Riesling fruit that reflects the heat of the vintage, especially in south-facing vineyards like this. Almost raisin flavors here. Crystalline and elegant on the palate, this is a linear and mineral but lush, rich and powerful Riesling with grip and tension and lingering salinity that indicates very good aging potential. 13% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted from a bottle declared as Fassprobe (a sample) in October 2019.
Quite flinty with bright perfume and an array of wild herbs, wildflowers and a fine, lemon-rind and grapefruit edge. The palate is very refined and sultry, drenched in savory minerals that sizzle long and fine. Intense, grapefruit and salty character on the finish. Thrilling riesling. This has finesse with power. Drink or hold.
The nose of the Kupfergrube is another of those which challenges the mellow-minded with its attack of medicinal pungency and cracking greens. Cutting is probably not the most desirable attribute associated with the palate, but the taste of minerality, mint and sorrel are all delivered with razor-sharp precision. Gooseberry, grapefruit and lime bring some soothing fruit to the flavour, but still add further vibrancy to a wine with magnificent vigour. (MS)