2017 Hill of Roses Shiraz

“This wine is produced from a selection of low-yielding, dry-grown Shiraz vines from the Hill of Grace vineyard that are, at present, too young to be considered for inclusion in the Hill of Grace vintages.” Matured in French oak for nearly two years, the 2017 Hill of Roses Shiraz has vitality and electricity and life. It has all of the Eden Valley hallmarks: blueberry and bacon fat, fresh acidity, licorice, allspice and deli meat. The wine is savory in the mouth, but it feels plush—despite being only medium-bodied. An interesting wine of amalgams, it is certainly incredibly distinct, and with length of flavor that plows across the palate. Looking at it beside the Hill of Grace, it is evident that the old vines bring with them a certain gravitas of tannin, which, at present, the Hill of Roses does not possess. Having said that, the two wines are different sides of the same coin, and each will have its fans.

Full Vinoloked bottle 1,174 g. 100% Shiraz that, having been planted only in 1989 next to the Hill of Grace vineyard, is regarded as almost an infant vineyard by the Henschkes. This relatively small vineyard was picked on 28 April, before Mt Edelstone which is picked before the cooler Wheelwright. As with all Henscke vineyards, it's managed with organic and biodynamic practices. The first vintage from this Post Office Block was made in 2001 and it's bottled separately from its neighbour Hill of Grace to show the difference between young and old vines, and monitor how old the vines have to be before their produce is judged as complex as Hill of Grace. Aged for 18 months in oak hogsheads (25% new), of which 11% were American rather than French. pH 3.60, TA 6.04 g/l. A little bit bluer than Hill of Grace 2017. Fresh and aromatic. Pretty, aromatic nose that really does rather seem to smell of rose petals (power of suggestion?). Then it's much more 'serious' with real depth on the palate. Mouth-filling, richer than The Wheelwright. Long with a distinctly saline undertow and some liquorice notes. Lovely freshness, though probably Mount Edelstone is better value and the price of Hill of Roses reflects its rarity to a certain extent. (JR)