2021 Pape Clement

The 2021 Château Pape Clément checks in as a blend of 50% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, and splashes of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc that was brought up in barrels and tuns. Its deeper ruby/plum hue is followed by a beautifully layered, round, medium-bodied Péssac offering ripe black cherry and currant-driven fruit, some textbook scorched earth and tobacco notes, a round, layered, expansive mouthfeel, and ripe yet integrated tannins. It's one of the gems from Péssac that will shine for 15 years.

The 2021 Pape-Clément, which was 90% aged in barrel (two-thirds new), 10% in foudres , was quite a different kettle of fish when I tasted it en primeur, much more classical in style compared to recent vintages. Now in bottle, there is a gulf in quality between this and the Deuxième Vin on the nose—far more fruit, mulberry and raspberry, light cedar and humidor scents and just a touch of lavender. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but not obtrusive tannins. There is but a fraction of the fruit compared to the 2019 or 2020, yet it retains balance and there is an attractive sapidity toward the finish. This is one of those wines that will never reach great heights but will give pleasure over the next 15 or 20 years.

The 2021 Pape Clément is a very elegant, polished wine. Crushed flowers, red cherry fruit, blood orange, menthol and spice all grace this wonderfully layered, expressive vintage of Pape Clément. Pretty floral top notes add freshness and vivacity. The more laid-back house style these days is so appealing.