2018 Ao Yun
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Tasting notes
The Ao Yun vineyards – Moët Hennessy’s Chinese project – are some of the world’s most dramatic and extreme, towering at over 2,000 metres’ altitude over the Mekong. Tasted alongside the 2016 and 2017 vintages, the 2018 is a clear step up. With gentler extraction, less new oak and more Merlot than previous vintages, it’s more supple and integrated, with fine and ripe tannins, crunchy vibrant fruit and acidity that speaks of its lofty location. Sweet plum and black cherry is balanced by a bite of redcurrant fruit. Tight and concentrated at this stage, yet with lifted aromatics, there’s a moreish crushed-rock, mineral edge to the long finish.
Critic scores
Average Score
Robert Parker
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
Not just cassis, there is light and shade here, giving red fruits, mint leaf, cocoa powder and menthol. The palate is full and ripe, with spicy oak foundation that is noticeable but not unsubtle. Fragrant palate that is definitely ready to drink, with complexity of flavour as well as supple tannins. Persistent red fruit on the finish. If you had to compare with bordeaux, this is surely more Pomerol than Pauillac. And as good as many wines from either! (RH)
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 7% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot. Herbaceous notes are the first things I notice, although there is undoubtedly plenty of black fruit at its core. Seems rather acetic and sharp on the palate – is the Cabernet Franc dominating? Very dark and savoury, and quite difficult to appreciate. Aggressive acid, tight structure and severe fruit. (RH)
I love the depth and complexity of the nose, which brings you down deeply into the wine, showing blackberry, ink, tar, earth, incense, cloves, and black licorice. Thyme, too. The purity of the fruit, including cassis, is the real thing. This is full-bodied, but remains so fresh and vertical on the palate. The tannins are so fine and integrated, producing a millefeuille-like layering of tannin and cool, blue fruit. Incredible wine. The greatest wine made in China so far. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 19% cabernet franc, 10% merlot, 7% syrah and 4% petit verdot. 26,000 bottles made. Drinkable now, but will be so much better in four or five years.
About the producer
Ao Yun – translating literally as “flying above the clouds” – is China’s most famous wine estate. Owned by Moët Hennessy, the aim was to produce a world-class fine wine that was the first Himalayan “grand cru”. The first vintage was 2013, released in 2016.