2014 Morstein Spatburgunder Felix GG (Auction)
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Tasting notes
Cinnamon- and cardamom-tinged purple plum and cherry project a forward, sweet sense of ripeness on the nose and on a juicy but firm palate underlain with chalk and crushed stone. Abundant though reasonably fine tannins are felt all the way through a gripping but fortunately persistently juicy finish, while medicinal suggestions of iodine and herbal extracts offer intrigue and sweaty salinity lends saliva-inducement. Still, this is more formidable than lovable and will need time. Tiny-berry concentration traceable in part to Burgundian genetics is very evident. (For an account of the unusual vines behind this wine, consult my review of the corresponding 2013. There were only around 50 cases of this 2014.)
Critic scores
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Keller's dark, cherry colored 2014 Morstein Spätburgunder GG "Felix" offers a pure, elegant, ripe and concentrated dark cherry and berry bouquet with some coconut chocolate and meat juice aromas. Full-bodied, round and elegant on the palate, this is an intense, dense and powerful red with juicy fruit and firm but fine, spicy tannins. It is well balanced but still very young and needs time to reduce its baby fat a bit. Tasted at the VDP Grosse Lage/Gewächs tasting in Wiesbaden in August 2017. In September this wine became by far Germany's most expensive red wine of all time. It has been sold at the auction in Bad Kreuznach for around 690 euros per bottle and that's the price you'll have to pay, if you can find a bottle.
Keller's 2014 Morstein Spätburgunder GG Felix is lovely, clear and transparently pure on the very deep and refined nose; it offers delicate red fruit and even spicy aromas of sandalwood. Silky and round, as well as charmingly rich and elegant on the palate ,this Pinot Noir is good to you. It is powerful and juicy, but also strong and aristocratic. The wine is provided with a fine, yet firm and taught tannin structure. This Morstein combines power, concentration and ripeness with purity, freshness and finesse. A gorgeous German Pinot Noir and surely one of the finest you can find along the Rhine. The Morsten Pinot yielded just 15 hectoliters per hectare, was destemmed manually and fermented for 22 days in a wooden 800-liter fermenter. The wine will be marketed no earlier then end of 2017, maybe in 2018.
About the producer

Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.