2012 Veuve Clicquot la Grande Dame Yayoi Kusama Edition (Gift Box)
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Tasting notes
A wonderfully fresh, a markedly citrus-inflected nose reflects additional notes of yeast, just sliced green apple, petrol and a whiff of spiced baked apples. In contrast to many 2012s today, this is quite bright and intense with the power that such a high percentage of pinot imparts, all wrapped in a clean and dry finish, indeed it is drier than the stated dosage would suggest. While this could certainly be enjoyed now, the firm mousse and acid backbone make it clear that another 3 to 5 years of keeping should prove to be beneficial. Moreover, if this can add depth over the course of the next few years, my rating may indeed be overtly conservative.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Allen Meadows, Burghound
More reviews and scores
The 2012 La Grande Dame is terrific. In fact, it is one of the finest recent Grande Dames I can remember tasting. Vibrant and tense, the 2012 exudes energy. At this stage, the natural richness of the 2012 vintage is hidden behind the wine's bright, salivating acids. Green apple, pear, mint and white pepper add a brilliant aromatic top register. I would cellar the 2012 for at least a few years, as it is nowhere near ready to drink.
Very difficult spring with frost and some hail but lovely summer. They could choose when to pick, on 17/18 September so a month later than 2020. Quite a bit of wind so very healthy fruit. Good acidity, as in 2004 (less than 2008). 90% Pinot Noir mainly from Aÿ, Verzenay, Verzy, Ambonnay and Bouzy. The 10% Chardonnay comes from the Grands Crus Avize and Mesnil-sur-Oger. Verzy and Verzenay have been favoured in 2012 for their minerality. They moved to the north from the south of the Montagne de Reims for the 2012. Full malo for all Veuve Clicquot wines so far. No oak for Grande Dame ingredients (cf vintage Veuve Clicquot). Dosage 6 g/l. Artist Yayoi Kusama has designed a very attractive, but not at all sustainable, package. This seems designed for the gift market. Notably mineral – even metallic – nose. Certainly not the floral perfume of Pinot Noir but something quite tight and not at all sweet. More structured, transparent, fresh and rewarding than many a Grande Dame I have tasted before. Long and well balanced with some lift and even slight bitterness on the end. I can see winemaker Didier Mariotti's description of this as 'vertical'. (JR)
The 2012 La Grande Dame is a dense, powerful Champagne. Now with a few years post-disgorgement, the 2012 is starting to show the first signs of aromatic development. Dried pear, chamomile, spice, light honey and marzipan are beautifully amplified throughout. The blend is 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay, with the weight of Pinots from the southern part of the appellation lending considerable volume. Compared to the wines that follow it, the 2012 feels very much like it has one foot in the older style here. Disgorged: February 2021.