2005 Dalsheimer Hubacker Trocken Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Those with a cynical streak may view the 2005 as a bit of a phoney. Another hot summer produced young wines full of flattering, almost exotic fruit, but it soon became noticeable that there was a certain lack of vibrancy. The Hubacker has turned out quite baroque with ample curves and almost overripe fruit, which it is trying to compensate for with a seductive fragrance of tropical fruit and honey. The palate is almost overwhelmed by the combination of a rich creamy texture and generous fruit, but it doesn’t quite exude the energy of other vintages. You only realise how important acidity is for Riesling when it’s missing. (MS)
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
12-17 October, 40 hl/ha. Warm harvest. No pressure. Skin contact only six hours. TA only 8 g/l compared with his preferred 9 g/l. Actually, less expressive on the nose than the 2004 – though admittedly from bottle. Quite rich and sweet and candified. Racy and much or successful than the 2001 with layers of flavour including something akin to botrytis. He says shrivelled healthy grapes. Long and very rich and exotic. Lots of delivery even if not the most classic or lean example. Quite rich! Almost fat. (JR)
Honeyed gold. Very minerally and refreshing and racy. Maybe this is the Hubacker? Chalky and sucky stoney. Great persistence. Long. A wine you really want to swallow. (JR)
The initial topnote is citrus – lime? orange peel? – but then there is something floral and decidedly aromatic. Again, the richness of this wine is incredibly striking even though the finish is dry – like Clos Ste Hune in a good vintage. Lovely lift and so much ripe fruit that the acidity is almost unnoticeable, but it is certainly there. This wine is intensely rewarding right through to the finish – arguably even more on the back palate than on the nose. Each mouthful really grows in the mouth and glass. (JR)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.