2015 Etna Rosso Riserva Rovittello

90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio, co-planted in a terraced vineyard located in Contrada Dafara Galluzzo, in the upper area of Rovittello, part of the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia, on Etna’s northern slope, at 750 m (2,450 ft). Sandy, volcanic soil, rich in minerals. A parcel of pre-phylloxera, ungrafted, head-trained bush vines. Fermented in stainless-steel vat, aged in 15-hl French oak barrels for 24 months. Cherry blossom. Sweet rust, a hint of blood, like a quiet pool into which a single pebble has been dropped. Ever-widening ripples. Moss and mushrooms with an interesting bitterness. Tangerine peel. Such a pure nose – strawberries and earth and sour cherries and then this really beautiful aerian cloud of spice on the finish. The tannins are spider web and gossamer. And then they press in gentle. Stained-glass window, a pool of light on the floor, window leading. Patterns and pools. More evolved than Serra della Contessa Particella No 587, a little less length, but more mellow than younger vintages. (TC)

Here's another new release, in a sense, as we are talking about a new wine from old vines. The word "Riserva" has been added as well as specifications on the vineyard site and vine age. From 100-year-old vines, the Benanti 2015 Etna Rosso Riserva Alberello Centenario Rovitello (from the Particella 341) is a blend of 90% ancient Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio. Only 2,988 bottles were released, and I tasted number 1,281. This warm-vintage expression shows concentrated fruit and a mid-weight approach with bright berry tones, grilled herb and toasted pistachio nut. This is a bright and lively red wine from Etna.

Nerello Mascalese with a tiny proportion of Nerello Cappuccio, from >100-year-old bush vines on their own rootstocks in a terraced vineyard at 700 m above sea level in Rovitello. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel and aged in large oak casks. Bottle number 1,638 of 2,988. Just mid ruby that is already quite mature looking. Firmer than the Serra della Contessa and still a bit closed on the nose hints of liqueur and ripe red fruit. Rather closed on the palate too, with the soft red fruit just starting to emerge. A firm layer of finely grained tannins. Long, elegant and already a little developed, but still fresh. (WS)