2011 Guado al Tasso Matarocchio

Light, deep ruby-red. Knockout nose offers red cherry, grilled herbs, smoke, aromatic herbs and minerals. Juicy and vibrant, displaying outstanding inner-mouth perfume and energy to the red and dark fruit flavors. Finishes smooth and long, with sneaky concentration and complexity. This wine spent 18 months in 100% new oak but you really can't tell. Yet another pure cabernet franc now being made on the Tuscan Coast; only a few years ago you could find Paleo by Le Macchiole and little else. I should note that I like the 2011 Matarocchio better than the 2011 Guado al Tasso, which, though also outstanding, is similar to many other warm-weather Bordeaux blends made around the world; by contrast, cabernet franc from the Tuscan Coast is a truly unique wine.

Textbook spring and a hot summer meant small yields. September saw milder weather which allowed the Cabernet Franc to complete the final ripening phase. The grapes were sorted by hand before destemming and pressing. After fermentation in stainless steel and a 30-day maceration period, the wine then went into 60-gallon oak barrels to complete malolactic fermentation. The ageing continued for 18 months in barrel before bottling. Polished lustrous dark crimson. Hint of pencil shavings on top of the very ripe, well-integrated fruit. Complete. Fully ripe but not sweet. A fresh balsam streak, racy but not skinny. Long. The opulent but still-savoury fruit covers the tannins. This complex wine is at a lovely stage now, though it definitely needs food.

I was blown away by the 2011 Matarocchio (100% Cabernet Franc). From 15-year-old vines planted some 60 meters above sea level on the Tuscan coast, this wine is absolutely stunning, delicious and simply unforgettable. Only produced in 2007, 2009 and 2011, this third edition shows towering aromas of sensuous dark fruit, leather and tobacco. If Cabernet Franc is the darling grape of this appellation, Matarocchio is a reason why. The mouthfeel is penetrating and powerful, but seamless and silky smooth at the same time. The tannin management is excellent. This is one to keep in the cellar. I sat down with Renzo Cotarella and his team of winemakers this summer to taste through various wines produced by the Antinori family. Although 2011 was a difficult vintage, I need to enthusiastically recommend their pure expression of Cabernet Franc called Matarocchio. It is my favorite pick among all the wines I tasted in Bolgheri this year.