2016 Hill of Grace Shiraz

A super-dense and tightly wound expression of Hill of Grace, with the promise of lots and lots of dark fruit waiting to be revealed from within the flood of dense tannin that blankets the tongue. A superbly layered wine, and – along with the 2012 – one that I think needs a couple more years to even begin to drink as well as it could. (MA)

This is the (robustly priced) jewel in the Henschke crown, the produce of arguably the most famous old vineyard in Australia with an average age of 70 to 80 years although The Grandfathers block was planted way back, on the deepest, siltiest soil, in 1860. Each of the several blocks apparently has a different character according to soil type. The original Ancestors (vines over 125 years) are now approximately 160 years old and remain the heart of Hill of Grace, along with a small selection of centenarians (vines over 100 years), and vines that qualify as old vines (over 35 years) in the Barossa Old Vine Charter scheme – all planted on their own roots. Picked 9 to 14 March. Matured in 85% French and 15% American hogsheads for 18 months prior to blending and bottling. 29% of the oak was new. Pretty deep purplish crimson. Not much evolution at the rim (unlike the Hill of Roses). Initially pretty reticent on the nose. Then fumes started to swirl up from the glass as from a cauldron! I'm thinking witches here. Luscious ripe fruit within a stern framework – it really is impossible to spit out. Strong saline quality on the (very long) finish. Just unfurling in the glass but the intensity of the fruit almost masks the tannic charge. I know Stephen Henschke talks about the red and black fruit here but I get lots of mineral stuff. It is a really very unusual combination of lift/freshness with intensity of historic Shiraz. Such throat-soothing persistence! But what a price!! (Though more or less the same as Penfolds Grange 2016.) 24 hours later the colour seems to have mellowed. But the wine is still amazingly luscious and broad with strong mineral and saline notes. Decant this and you could enjoy it immediately. (JR)

Henschke's 2016 Hill of Grace Shiraz is locked up tight behind a stubborn wall of firm tannins. Scents of pencil shavings, mocha, bay leaf, mixed berries and plums appear on the nose, while the full-bodied palate starts off broad, expansive and creamy, then draws to a chewy, drying finish. There's ample concentration, length, complexity and a definitive track record of aging, so put this version away for several years while waiting for it to emerge and show its true glory. If you absolutely must drink it now, decanting for a couple of hours helps soften the tannins and brings the fruit forward.