2020 Cantenac Brown
Buying options
Tasting notes
The Cantenac Brown at this stage remains fairly compacted. Earthy, savoury notes dominate a slightly closed nose. With air more floral, scented notes emerge. On the palate it’s quite bright and pure with crunchy blackcurrant fruit and close-knit tannins. It’s fresh and tight with nice purity of fruit.
Critic scores
Average Score
James Suckling
James Lawther MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Pure, lightly spicy black fruit. Extremely fine tannins, particularly in a vintage like this. Harmonious, fresh, juicy finish. Beautiful now and for the future. Classic Margaux. (JH)
The 2020 Cantenac Brown has a more reductive nose than its peers—the aromatics are not coming out to play on this occasion. But in the glass, it does have real complexity. The palate is medium-bodied, though not quite as precise as its peers, with a little chewiness toward the finish. This does not engage as much as some of the other Margaux at the moment. It's a bit distant, though I am sure it will blossom with bottle age. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.
A fine follow-up to the excellent 2019, the 2020 Cantenac Brown incorporates newly acquired holdings of Cabernet Sauvignon from the plateau of Margaux. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis, burning embers and pencil shavings, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with good depth at the core, supple tannins and terrific purity of fruit. Concluding with a long, penetrating finish, it underlines the fact that this is the appellation's fastest-improving estate.
About the producer
Tristan le Lous purchased this Third Growth in 2019, keeping on José Sanfins on as director. There has been significant work in the vineyards here, with a sustainable, organic approach across the 48 hectares.