2018 Art Series Chardonnay

Made by Tim Lovett. No heat spikes and relatively dry but with sufficient rain – like 2010. No malo; Tim Lovett thinks it can reduce its longevity. Weekly bâtonnage. Very creamy, almost buttery nose. With richness and spice. More obvious evolution than Heytesbury and, especially, Xanadu 2018 Chardonnays. Long with the odd note of tropical fruit – kiwi? Much less austere than the other two. Lots of fun already! (JR)

Translucent yellow. Powerful, mineral-accented nectarine, orange, pear nectar, iodine and pungent flowers on the intensely perfumed nose. Smooth, chewy and dry in the mouth, offering wonderfully concentrated yet vibrant orchard and pit fruit flavors complemented by suggestions of fennel, sweet butter, saffron and candied lemon peel. Shows superb definition and finishes minerally, smoky and extremely long, with lingering citrus and pit fruit notes and a touch of smokiness.

Tasted from a mini sample bottle. ‘The jewel in the portfolio.’ 100% Gingin clones planted in 1975 and 1976. Senior winemaker Tim Lovett said he’s just come in from running off parcel 20 of this, which has had eight hours’ skin contact. Hand-picked. 60 pickers for one parcel of fruit. Destemmed, chilled down and pressed under CO 2  for six to eight hours to amplify the vineyard. I noculated yeast, fermented in 100% new Bordeaux-coopered oak from six different coopers. ‘ Bordelais-coopered oak has a much finer grain tightness and toasting level is much more precise and consistent. The fruit behind the wine has much more richness and power and length so I'm looking for the fine phenolic structure from tight grain that is not over-toasted. ’ Spends longer on barrel than Prelude. A little lees work, no malo. Higher acidity, year on year, than Prelude (which is for more youthful, early drinking). Apricot intensity on the nose. And fresh hazelnut, cumin, lightly pan-warmed walnuts. Quince and gorgeous greengage on the palate. Has opulent spread but a charge of acidity that turns satin as it fills the mouth. Top notes of jasmine. A bite of grapefruit. The oak, again, like the Prelude, is so beautifully folded into the wine that even at this young stage it is not a feature, just part of the story, part of the flow.  Aristocratic bearing, proud, elegant. (TC)