2019 Dalsheimer Hubacker Grosses Gewachs 23 19
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Tasting notes
A haunting, penetratingly high-toned mélange of gentian, black tea, bruised apple skin and quince distillate resembles the nose of no other Hubacker that I can recall. (If told I were smelling Abtserde, I’d have believed it.) As it turns out, this is also one of, if not the most, impressive – but also, the most youthfully expressive – Hubacker of my experience. The palate, like the nose, offers distillate-like, estrous concentration, haunting inner-mouth smokiness and enough citrus juice to animate. A vibrant sense of energy is conveyed in a soaringly sustained finish.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
From yellow-colored limestone soils in Keller's monopole since 1789, the 2019 Hubacker Riesling GG opens pure, flinty and spicy on the very intense yet refined nose with lemon, herbal and yeasty tones. This is pure, vital or almost racy on the palate, which is an excellent counterpoint to the suppleness and richness of this Hubacker that displays mandarin and white peach aromas. The wine is silky, fresh and juicy but also enormously mineral and tensioned, with impressive grip and length. I have never had a Hubacker at such a high level.
Really cool and fresh on the nose with aromas of crushed basil and mint. A hint of almond blossom makes a delicate floral contribution. The flavour of the Hubacker combines sappy herbaceous and herbal elements with subtle notes of mandarin and citrus peel, served on a creamy texture. Acidity is well integrated, just adding a slight lemony touch to the finish. (MS)
Ripe and succulent, this generous dry riesling is so easy to enjoy, but also has so much depth and finesse. Stunning apricot, pineapple and mineral finish. Drink or hold.
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.