2018 Hermitage

I was blown away by the 2018 Hermitage from barrel, and it unquestionably doesn't disappoint from bottle. Reminding me slightly of the 2009, it possesses off-the-charts richness and depth, but like all great wines, stays pure, balanced, and light on its feel. Extraordinary notes of cassis, blue fruits, graphite, violets, and flowers define the bouquet, and this full-bodied, layered, multi-dimensional beauty has ripe tannins, flawless balance, and a great finish. This is pure Hermitage magic. Given its extravagant richness and texture, it should be relatively accessible in just a handful of years yet evolve for three decades or more.

Opaque ruby. Powerful, smoke- and spice-accented black and blue fruit, exotic spice, olive, cured tobacco, cured bacon and violet aromas show superb clarity and a bright mineral top note. Deeply concentrated and broad on the palate, offering sappy, alluringly sweet cherry, blackcurrant, fruitcake, salty olive and violet pastille flavors plus hints of licorice and allspice. The wonderfully long, penetrating finish features resonating mineral, spice and floral notes and chewy tannins that build steadily.

Joint favourite in a comparative tasting of five 2018 Syrahs. Tasted blind. Extremely youthful – smells almost like a young, very concentrated Cabernet! Then glossy, glamorous, satin-textured fruit on the palate. Much more open than it smells. Impressively persistent.