2019 Le Montrachet

This is pure and refined, with aromas of bright white peach, ripe lemon rind, gun smoke, and hints of toasted nuts and butter. It has a bright, nicely ripe, exuberant palate – almost exotic, with mandarin fruit – that is surprisingly open and generous. This is delicate but with real power, depth and concentration underneath. There is clear expertise in the winemaking here, gentle extraction and well-integrated oak adding controlled weight, density and texture, but not to the detriment of the terroir. It’s got a racy freshness, with a mineral, saline character that becomes evident after a few hours in the glass. This is classic, in the style of the vineyard, but really showcases what is special about the greatest whites in 2019 – concentration, real freshness and harmony. In terms of sheer length, this edges the Chevalier, but only just. It feels like this will last forever. Outstanding. Only a single barrel was made.