2019 St Aubin En Remilly

Wafting from the glass with notes of smoky orchard fruit, citrus pith, fresh bread and vanilla pod, the 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly (Maison Louis Jadot) is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and textural, with a bright core of fruit and chalky grip on the creditably long finish. Frédéric Barnier has presided over a small but superb vintage at Louis Jadot, and our two tastings together unfolded in comparative tranquility: Barnier isn't one for smoke or mirrors, and the wines spoke for themselves. Indeed, in terms of overall consistency across the range, I'm inclined to single out 2019 as the most successful I've ever tasted at this address. That's an especially impressive feat in a year when ripening was rapid and, to a significant extent, synchronized. Readers will be familiar with what might be called Jadot's democratic approach to winemaking: almost all cuvées reviewed here were handled the same way—destemmed reds and whole-cluster pressed whites, with élevage in one-third new barrels, one-third once-used barrels, and one-third twice-used barrels. The house style is present, but it's consistent across the range, letting distinctions of site shine through. In 2019, plenty of those distinctions are on display. If I had one criticism to make of the Jadot style, it would focus on the rather overtly lactone-driven style of the barrels supplied by their own Tonnellerie Cadus: might this characteristic be toned down? I do think that would represent an improvement, especially in the wines' youth. But that notwithstanding, and as I concluded last year, this important firm is a credit to contemporary Burgundy. Readers should note that, as this report goes to press, I'm working through an extensive selection of Jadot's bottled 2018s, so they can expect notes on those to appear in these pages in short order.