2012 Henri Giraud Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Ay

While total production is always small, volumes for its Blanc de Blancs are particularly minute – with just over 140 cases made. The fruit for this wine is sourced from a single plot of Grand Cru Chardonnay in the village of Ay, La Croix de Courcelle, that has been in the Giraud family for generations. In keeping with the House style, the wine is fermented in oak, 70% of which is new, creating a particularly rich, vinous and complex Champagne. The latest vintage, the superb 2012, has just been released – and is exclusively available via FINE+RARE. Aged for seven years on lees, slowly developing layer upon layer of flavour, it was disgorged in September of this year and is as remarkable as you’d expect. This is still young and a little tight; however, with some air, the nose is intense and complex, with apple, honey, nougat, lemon, fresh bread with a hint of dried strawberry and vanilla. There’s an incredible amount going on here. On the palate, striking freshness shows this is still a baby. It opens up with time in the glass, initial notes of crunchy green apple, apple core and lemon peel evolving to offer incredible depth. The texture is reminiscent of Grand Cru Chablis with flavours of white flowers, grapefruit, more dried strawberries, a hint of clementine and orange, while an excellent balance of oak adds further complexity. The mousse is super-refined, showing this Champagne’s class. With more time in the glass, the wine just keeps on developing – offering deeper nuttiness and a more palate-coating texture. It’s vinous, without straying too far from being an incredible Champagne. The finish goes on forever – coating the mouth with a full punch of flavour. The bubbles are something else, as is the memory this wine leaves. Stunning.