2017 Massetino
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Tasting notes
Now that Masseto has a new home, a dedicated winery slash temple, it makes perfect sense that the brand would introduce a sibling wine. We had been hearing stirrings regarding the possible release of a second Masseto wine, and indeed the Masseto 2017 Massetino was born at about the same time the stunning new winery was unveiled. All these exciting changes lined up perfectly, making 2019 an important milestone year for the brand. I know that some critics have commented that Masseto didn't need a Massetino, the implication being that a second wine could distract from the main attraction and give the entire operation a more commercial air. I would disagree. Not only does this addition make a perfect companion, Massetino holds its own. Masseto is famously 100% Merlot, and Massetino is 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, a grape that has been showing spectacular results on this stretch of the Tuscan Coast. The addition of the Cabernet Franc gives this wine a very different personality, and it beautifully draws out the wine's high tones or the more lifted aromas of black olive spice and crushed aspirin or mineral that immediately catch your attention at the back of the usual black cherry, spice and tobacco. This wine is more playful and ultimately more fruit-driven, with less fruit weight. The Merlot comes from the same blue clay soils that distinguish Masseto, and the wine sees a less intensive oak regimen. You sense this in the freshness of the aromas, the elegant weightless quality of the mouthfeel and the softer tannins. Both steel and oak fermenters are used for brief skin maceration before going into barrique for 15 months, followed by an additional nine months in bottle. In all honesty, I would gladly go with Massetino over Masseto if I devilishly intended to drink the whole bottle. While Masseto can sometimes be too much, Massetino is just right. Welcome to a beautiful new world, young Mr. Massetino.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Massetino is the first release for Masseto's new second wine, and it is a total stunner. All of the opulent radiance of Masseto is present, but Massetino has less tannin and overall structure, both of which will make it easy to drink upon release. A dollop (6-7%) of Cabernet Franc adds quite a bit of dimension. In fact, tasting Massetino made me wonder if one day Masseto itself might include some Franc, as that grape brings such gorgeous aromatic brilliance to blends. For now, though, Massetino is a beautiful wine to enjoy on its own terms. Black cherry, chocolate, licorice and sweet spice all build into the effortless finish. Massetino is a very serious second wine. In fact, I wouldn't even call it a second wine at all.
92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Debut vintage just released (one of the hottest and driest vintages in recent history), to be sold initially only in Italy and a little in the US. It will eventually be offered in Switzerland, Germany and Austria, for example where demand for Masseto is especially strong. Young vines. The idea is to produce it every year, rather than it being simply a reaction to the 2017 vintage. Harvest started on 24 August and was completed within a week. The bunches were hand harvested in 15-kg crates and sorted by hand before destemming and soft crushing. Each lot was vinified separately. Fermentation took place in both steel and wooden tanks, followed by rather short macerations (under a week). Malolactic fermentation took place in 50% new oak barrique barrels. The wine remained in the barrels for 15 months. Maturation in bottle until October 2019. Very rich, glowing crimson. Savoury autumn mulch on the nose. Glamorous and round without being too alcoholic, and with a note of dark chocolate. It certainly does taste like a mini Masseto. Rather awkward tannins on the end. This is probably not going to be Massetino’s most glorious vintage. (JR)
This new second wine from Masseto is extremely exciting with black-olive, rust, brown-sugar and dark-berry aromas. Full-bodied, chunky and structured with blackberry and salty undertones. Chewy yet polished tannins. Itâs a substantial wine with lots of fruit and alcohol, due to the very dry and hot growing season, but itâs still fresh and vivid. Drinkable now, but better after 2023.
About the producer
Established in the 1980s by Lodovico Antinori on the advice of André Tchelistcheff, Masseto was one of Tuscany’s first pure Merlot wines. Sibling to Ornellaia, the Super Tuscan is often considered the Pétrus of Italy – offering powerful, perfumed wines that are highly sought-after by collectors.