2016 The Armagh Shiraz

The 2016 The Armagh Shiraz, tasted in a lineup of four vintages (2016 - 2019), has the highest alcohol of the lot (14.2% alcohol) and remains perfectly in balance. These are not the big wines that we may expect them to be. The vintage variation across them is subtle but evident, revealing the beauty of this single vineyard, planted in 1968. This 2016 wine is now starting to settle into its first drinking window and speaks of an array of deli meats, forest berries, exotic spice and even a hint of red curry paste. This has all the complexity you could want, and in terms of tannins: texture, density and rippling muscles. Sensational stuff. Drink it over the next two decades.

Delivers the fragrant wet earth and raspberry leaf edge that makes Shiraz such a poetic grape in the right hands, and in the right place. As it deepens through the mid palate, this is pure raspberry and plum puree, joyful plump fruit overlaid with peach pits, charred sandalwood and dark chocolate, mouthwatering finish. A lovely wine, subtle yet powerful, you can drink now or wait and allow it to keep ageing in bottle. Submerged cap for maceration, fermentation 18-22C for around 10 days, 20% American oak (the last vintage to use any) and the rest French oak, at around 65% new in 300l hogshead size. Tom Barry winemaker.

From a screwcapped half-bottle. Mid crimson. Heady, rich-but-savoury nose. If someone told me this was Tempranillo with its savoury tobacco-leaf flavours, I could have believed it. Very far from the super-sweet, super-alcoholic Shiraz of some Barossa valley floor producers, this has real lift and refreshment. Some salty leather notes along with the cassis and a hint of the French and American oak it was aged in. A very successful Armagh. The Barrys must be very proud of this wine in which fruit trumps camphor – but if I had a sore throat I certainly wouldn't say no. Already perfectly broachable. (JR)