2017 Meursault Charmes du Dessus

The 2017 Meursault Les Charmes-Dessus 1er Cru shows a little more wood on the nose compared to its peers, though it retains decent delineation. The palate is well balanced but I find the oak impinging more on the terroir and fruit profile, and there is a touch of heat on the finish. Maybe it just needs time to calm down. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

The 2017 Meursault Les Charmes Dessus 1er Cru is soft, open-knit and inviting. Dried pear, spice, almond, saline and floral accents are all nicely woven together in this mid-weight 1er Cru from the Château de Meursault. This is an especially airy, lifted style. Light tropical overtones grace the understated finish. The 2017 can be enjoyed now for its freshness. Readers who prefer whites with greater nuance will want to cellar it for at least another year or two.

Tank sample. Citrus fruit is more piercing and prominent here than on the Clos des Grands Charrons. Lovely harmony of pure citrus fruit and the finely grained texture of lees and the breadth of oak. (JH)