2018 Riesling Von Der Fels 21 19

A fragrance which impresses, not with impact but with subtlety. A gentle aroma of fresh green herbs including a cool hint of mint. Minerality ranges from fresh chalk to more mature waxy and fumy notes. Fine nuances of green fruit conclude the olfactory profile. The taste is exhilaratingly fresh with zesty grapefruit and crisp green apple, chalky and salty mineral nuances, vibrant acidity and a delicate smoky aftertaste. Despair not, those of you who can’t afford G-Max or Pettenthal. Close your eyes, sip this and you are (almost) there. (MS)

In keeping with Keller’s conviction that in 2018 success and exhibition of terroir character were strongly correlated with vine age, this year’s “Von der Fels” is based strictly on old vines in the estate’s Grosses Gewächs vineyards, with the cuvée weighted heavily toward Kirchspiel. A penetratingly high-toned nose incorporates basil, mint and wintergreen, lemon and grapefruit zests, as well as oily and chalky notes, for an aromatic profile that makes me think “Scheurebe meets Chablis.” The polished palate features sappy, invigoratingly tangy and piquant citrus and herb presence, now including a bite of peppercorn and a tart edge of crab apple. The finish is mouth-shaking in its vibratory persistence as well as cooling, ultra-refreshing and mouthwateringly saline. At 12% alcohol, an admirable sense of lift complements this bottling’s infectious juiciness and remarkable sense of animation. I have to believe that when it comes to ageability, this will rival some of Keller’s Grosse Gewächse.

Honed-in purity and focus are the hallmarks of this Riesling. Citrus and green fruit are the exclusive appetizers on the nose. Not only is the acidity knife-edged, but there’s also magnificent depth and focus. Stunning freshness and minerality on the finish with iron-filings that might just shave off a few taste buds!