NV Penfolds G4

A blend of 2002, 2004, 2008, and 2016. Blackish purple. Burly and rich. More convincingly complex than the g3 blend. But it’s too young at the moment and still very dry and chewy on the end. (JR)

Composed of the 2002, 2004, 2008 and 2016 vintages. Closed nose. This is not playing ball, and it seems very mute after Grange 2016. The tannins are softened, thanks to the older elements, but the flavours are surprisingly understated and straightforward. (RH)

The latest blend of different vintages of Grange which apparently 'energetically entwines Grange DNA from the exceptional 2002, 2004, 2008 and 2016 vintages to create a completely unique expression of Penfolds flagship. 'These four Grange vintages are amongst our favourites of the last two decades. All so different – in every sense, not just climatically. The synergistic blending of these vintages worked perfectly from a quality, structural and style perspective,' says Peter Gago. Only 2,500 bottles were filled. Each bottle, full, weight nearly 2 kg so this wine is presumably aimed straight at the Chinese market. The bottles comes packed in a luxurious box, of course. Not my style of wine, I'm afraid. I'd rather savour the vintage differences in isolation. I'm sure Peter Gago does his level best to sculpt as fine a wine as possible. But what the heck is the point really, other than to squeeze a few thousand more dollars from the Grange franchise? Sweet camphor and less tannin than the 2016 Grange, of course, together with admirable freshness – presumably thanks to the 2016. It's a great wine to taste but I do not approve! Even though of course I am hugely grateful to have been given the chance to taste one of those precious bottles. It is beautifully done for current drinking, I have to admit … (JR)