2005 Hermitage Cuvee Emilie

The 2005 Hermitage Cuvee Emilie has also turned out better than I thought from cask. A wonderfully intense bouquet of licorice, graphite, blackberry liqueur, and stone is followed by a full-bodied wine with superb concentration, and chewy, deep flavors of espresso roast, smoke, licorice, and creme de cassis. With plenty of tannin, this wine looks set to enjoy 20 or more years of aging potential. Run by Philippe Desmeures and his daughter, Emilie, this family owned business is a rarity in Hermitage where virtually everything is dominated by the leading negociants, Paul Jaboulet-Aine, Chapoutier, Delas, and Guigal. There is only a handful of small, artisanal estates such as Jean-Louis Chave, Sorrel, Faurie, Yann Chave, and Desmeures. His 2005 reds have developed beautifully from barrel to bottle. Desmeures and his daughter believe that in the northern Rhone, 2006 has more in common with 1991 than any other vintage since. That’s a legitimate comparison as the 1991s were underrated, had zesty acidity, terrific bouquets, not the greatest density or richness, but enough stuffing for 15 or more years of cellaring for the biggest wines.An excellent source of white wines, readers should not miss the gorgeous 2006s, which eclipse the very good 2005s. The 2005 whites are leaner and more austere, with good acidity, but perhaps not the charming aromatics or lusciousness of the 2006s Importer: A Patrick Lesec Selection, agent for the US market: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532

Dark purple. Very ripe nose shows a distinctly roasted aspect to its powerful cherry liqueur and blackcurrant scents. Plush and velvety, with deep, sweet dark berry flavors and a late-arriving note of bitter chocolate. Oak spice builds on the long, sweet finish, which features supple tannins and excellent length.