2016 Ao Yun

When the first vintage of Ao Yun was released three years ago, this groundbreaking wine from Shangri-La in the foothills of the Himalayas, backed by global luxury group LVMH, became an instant fine wine sensation: a spectacularly elegant, complex and refined Bordeaux blend from a region that could have vast untapped potential for producing terroir-driven wines of the highest level. This latest vintage is testament to the potential of this winery and the tireless work the team, led by Maxence Dulou as technical director, has put into getting the best results from this unique terroir. The vineyard is comprised of 314 tiny of blocks in the villages of Adong, Xidang, Sinong and Shuori at the foot of the sacred Meili mountain, along the banks of the Mekong river, a few hours’ drive from the city of Shangri-La - lands that have been worked by local farmers for centuries. Altitudes rise to as high as 2,600 metres above sea level. The air is so thin that fermentation is a challenge. 300 local farmers (from whom the land is leased through long term contracts) are required to organically cultivate the vines, and the strong UV makes the ripening season completely unique. Having tasted 2016 Ao Yun last week, we were impressed by the wine's tremendous complexity, balance and texture - with bold flavours and superb intensity matched by a refined energy, elegant tannins and bright freshness. Exotic notes of fresh herbs, tobacco, cedar, green plum and soy added to the intrigue and overall impact of this wine. The blend of the 2016 vintage is 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and a small proportion of Shiraz and Petit Verdot. With all the power and structure of top Cabernet Sauvignon and striking perfume and elegance from the Cabernet Franc, this is a wine any Bordeaux-lover should get to know, and one that is on a remarkable trajectory. In each vintage, Ao Yun has achieved an ever more impressive level of quality, as evidenced by its best ever score from critic James Suckling. The 2016 vintage proves that Ao Yun is very much worth paying attention to at this early stage of what is bound to be an ever more impressive and important feature on the global fine wine scene. Superb intensity on the nose - classic Cabernet notes of blackcurrant, slate and tobacco, layered with a perfume of fresh herbs, meat, soy, some plum and greengage and mulberry. There is an incredible amount of complexity and continual evolution that keeps drawing you back to the glass. On the palate, there is remarkable freshness and vivacity that balances the bold and concentrated flavours. There is still some grip to the tannins, but whilst chewy they are superbly integrated and smooth. Nothing is out of place and the whole package offers intensity, elegance and excitement.