2019 Yquem

Yields were low in 2019, down by just over 30% – making this exceptional wine all the rarer. A wet spring made for a difficult start to the season, but the summer was long and dry, with rain – and therefore botrytis – slow to arrive in the autumn. The team had to hold out until 7th October, harvesting everything in one week before rain arrived. The blend is 55% Semillon and 45% Sauvignon Blanc – a record-high percentage at the estate, making for a particularly aromatic and instantly appealing Yquem. Every swirl of the glass reveals a new layer of complexity – with notes of mango, citrus pith, tinned apricots, fresh hay, lychee, lemon meringue pie, acacia honey and chamomile shifting in and out of focus. Beneath the richness of fruit, there’s a mineral precision holding things together. The palate is laden with apricot compote drizzled with honey, with a marmalade lift, a pithy freshness and demerara sweetness. It’s viscous and weighty, with 138g/l residual sugar, but the vibrant, lime-edged piercing acidity makes it feel light and moreish. A wine that will age effortlessly for 40 years and more.