2015 Hill of Grace Shiraz

Unlike the following vintage, which is all about density and brooding potential, this is relatively translucent and open, both in colour, aromas and structure. Beautiful, expressive nose – all the bush spices and juicy berries – with fine, elegant, harmonious, ‘sticky’ tannins and a long sweep of fruit. Lovely savoury Hill of Grace that will develop more complexity as it ages. (MA)

100% pre-phylloxera Shiraz. Aged for 18 months in 86% French and 14% American (33% new) oak hogsheads. Fairytale vintage, according to Stephen Henschke. Really extravagant nose, with charred, barbecue-smoke notes on the nose. The fruit is less ripe than Edelstone at first, but the palate delivers a full-on mouthful of savoury, succulent black fruit. There’s an opulence about it, but no excessiveness, and the acidic tension is really well judged. On the finish, there seems to be a hint of something on the feral side, or maybe medicinal – a welcome touch of funk to add intrigue on the finish. (RH)

The original 'ancestor' vines in this, Australia's most iconic vineyard, are more than 160 years old. Rich alluvial soils and gnarled old vines. Cyril Henschke made the first single-vineyard wine from them in 1958. For viticulturist Prue and winemaker Stephen Henschke, they are the family's crown jewels. Some might be surprised by how translucent a garnet this wine is – concentration is clearly no virtue here. Hauntingly well-integrated nose seems more evolved than that of stablemate Mount Edelstone – although admittedly I have had this wine in a young wine decanter for two hours – and would advise others to do the same. It's so much more of a Côte Rôtie than a Hermitage! Fresh and playful rather than brooding. It builds on the finish in a sort of burgundian way. Aromas of tar, iodine and dried brush. Great precision and a saline finish. A hugely confident style and so unlike the medicinal concentration of Penfolds Grange made down the hill in Barossa Valley. (JR)