2016 Latricieres Chambertin

(30 hectoliters per hectare): Good dark red. Much more sauvage on the nose than the Chapelle-Chambertin, showing a more brambly dark fruit character along with notes of licorice and leather. Then plush and gamey in the middle palate, with plum and currant fruit flavors enlivened by violet and mineral notes and given surprising definition by firm acidity. Firm and upright but not austere, with its solid tannins nicely supported by sweet purple fruits.

The 2016 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, which contains 40% whole bunch fruit like the Chapelle Chambertin, has those typical traits of correctness and strictness on the nose. The black fruit feels a bit aloof and distant, but that is what you expect—this is not a Charmes-Chambertin! The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red and black fruit tinged with fig, cinnamon and baking spices, lively and tensile with real frisson toward the finish. What an outstanding Latricières from Jean-Louis, yet another great success this vintage.