2004 Saarburger Rausch Spatlese 04 05

Zilliken’s 2004 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spatlese A.P. #2, an auction cuvee that married botrytised and frosted fruit lots, smells of peaches and honey with high-toned spice and lemon oil notes. On the palate, it is rich and honeyed, veritably custardy in texture, yet still invigoratingly juicy. Peach kernel bitterness and bright, lemony citricity offset the wine’s sweetness and leaven its richness and thick texture. The long finish preserves this wine’s striking, even incongruous, yet delicious and fascinating juxtaposition of egg custard and citrus sorbet character. The result is dynamic but not in the least discordant. Expect this to be at least a 20-year Spatlese. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463