2005 IX Estate Syrah

Good red-ruby. Knockout nose combines musky blue fruits, black raspberry, truffle, smoke, herbs de Provence, olive brine and exotic spices, lifted by a crushed rock element. Then much less open in the mouth, with dark berry fruit currently dominated by earth, spices and saline minerality. Finishes classically dry and very long. I'd hold this still-youthful syrah for at least two more years before pulling the cork.

Previously recommended, but no tasting note given Colgin is one of the reference points for just what heights mountain-grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux varietals, and more recently, Syrah, can achieve in Napa Valley. This beautiful estate and winery overlooking Lake Hennessey is owned by Joe Wender and his wife, Ann Colgin (equally renowned for her auctioneering skills), who are assisted by David Abreu, the well-known Bordeaux wine consultant, Dr. Alain Raynaud, and Allison Tauziet, who has skillfully replaced the brilliant Mark Aubert. As the scores and tasting notes suggest, this was an exceptional tasting. Colgin’s 2006s are among the finest wines produced in the vintage. Tel. (707) 963-0999; Fax (707) 963-0996

Good deep ruby-red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, mocha, Cuban tobacco, smoked meat, bitter chocolate and white pepper. Sweet, dense and thick, but with the lively acidity of the year contributing freshness to the flavors of dark berries, bitter chocolate and licorice. This wonderfully sweet wine really grips the palate. I'd love to be able to jump ahead ten years to see what this will do in the cellar. The pH is a solid 4.0, and yet this wine has real verve.