2018 Seleccion de Parcelas Los Primos Chardonnay

The 2018 Selección de Parcelas Los Primos Chardonnay is developing beautifully, opening with vibrant, radiant aromas complemented by a nutty undertone and a tropical backdrop. The palate is similarly lively and focused, exuding both racy energy and dense, punchy concentration. It concludes with a refined, lingering citrus-driven finish that gradually fills with a creamy yet classy decadence. This wine feels as though it still has significant runway ahead of it and should continue to develop for at least the next five years or more. After distinguished tenures at Errázuriz, revered enologist Francisco "Pancho" Baettig and Commercial Director Carlos de Carlos launched a project in the Traiguén province of Malleco Valley. It revolves around the Viñedos Los Suizos vineyard—named as a playful nod to the Swiss heritage of both owners—planted on volcanic soil in 2013 with 6.4 hectares of Chardonnay and nine hectares of Pinot Noir, both derived from French clonal material to avoid the inconsistencies of Chilean massal selections. Readers familiar with Pancho's work at Errázuriz will not be surprised that the entire lineup is superbly executed and has quickly become a reference point. The roster is divided between the Vino de Viñedo line, which provides an overview of the vineyard as a whole, and the Selección de Parcelas bottlings, which zoom in to showcase a selection of blocks. Chardonnay undergoes barrel fermentation, and bâtonnage is used in the early stages of élevage. The first sulfur additions typically occur in the summer following the harvest. Maturation usually lasts around 13 to 14 months in approximately 35% new 400-liter barrels. Pinot Noirs incorporate about 20% whole-cluster fermentations and are aged in roughly 50% new 300-liter barrels with a slightly longer élevage. Complementing the Burgundian varieties is a newer and equally impressive Cabernet Sauvignon program based in Maule. For this line, the duo collaborates with a group of growers in Coronel de Maule who own century-old País vineyards that have gradually been grafted to Cabernet Sauvignon since the 1980s. Since Baettig's interest and involvement, this progress has accelerated, resulting in more vines being converted and the outright purchase of one site, showcased in the stunning Los Padrinos bottling. The remaining vines contribute to the Los Compadres, which boasts a unique profile that blends a vibrant, umami-like richness reminiscent of Mediterranean wines with a coniferous quality I associate with California's Santa Cruz Mountains.

The 2018 Selección de Parcelas Los Primos Chardonnay was cropped from a cooler year that resulted in a slow ripening of the grapes and a late harvest (mid April) of very healthy grapes, thanks to the cold and windy weather during the end of the cycle. It's lower in alcohol than the 2017 and keeps equally high and healthy acidity. The vinification was similar to the 2017, fermenting the juice from pressing the full clusters in French barrels and a shorter élevage of 12 months in 400-liter oak barrels. This is a cooler vintage, and the wine feels a lot more austere and undeveloped; it was a year of slow ripening of the grapes, and the wine is also moving at a very slow pace. There are some flinty sensations with a note of gun powder. It has more finesse and tension, more detail and complexity but in a subtle way. The palate is vibrant and very precise, with symmetry and more austerity and a marked salty note on the finish that makes it very tasty. This has superb balance and should develop nicely in bottle. 1,512 bottles were filled in April 2019

Francisco Baettig's new wines are taking Chilean Chardonnay and Pinot to a new level. Subtle aromatics lead into a sumptuous yet tense, ageworthy palate profile. Utterly cogent and beautifully fluent: grace and class in a flinty, gently nutty style. Very grown-up. If this wine's too pricey then let yourself be convinced by the excellent value 2019 Vino de Viñedo Chardonnay or Pinot Noir at £19. You won't regret it.