2017 Gevrey Chambertin Clos du Chateau

Aromas of sweet red berries, raw cocoa and candied peel introduce the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Château, a medium-bodied wine with a supple attack, tangy underlying acids and a light framing of chalky tannins that asserts itself on the finish. Cyrielle Rousseau tells me that work to rehabilitate this neglected parcel next to the château of Gevrey-Chambertin continues.

Made since 2012 but need to do more work on the vines. 17 ares (0.42 acres) replanted and not yet fruiting. They have been experimenting with biodynamic practices for six years and are now awaiting the results of soil analysis to see if there have been improvements. Pretty red and sour-cherry fruit on the nose. A slight dusty mineral overlay adds finesse. On the palate, sweet but tangy cherry fruit. Succulent, moreish with a touch of spice and fruit sweetness. Lovely fragrant nose, expressive and alive. (JH)