2018 Piesporter Goldtropchen Kabinett 07 19
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Tasting notes
This registers 11 grams of acidity – shockingly high by any standards, not to mention those of its vintage. Against that, 44 grams of residual sugar do not seem in the least excessive. But what sweetness there is here – looked at the other way around – helps keep the spine-tingling acidity from crossing the pain threshold. Zesty and brightly juicy lime and pink grapefruit are tinged with sizzling raw ginger and nippy cress, while bittersweet nuttiness and an undertone of set stone add depth en route to a mouth-tinglingly vibrant, resonant finish. This should be a fantastic keeper.
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Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Lots of very pungent sulphur on the nose. Honey and lime juice underneath, with light body and a touch of cordite on the finish. Very lean and refreshing, but the sulphurous nose isn't the most enjoyable introduction at present. (RH)
Poached pears, apples, apricot pie and bread crust. Medium-bodied with pretty notes of lemon drizzle cake and caramelized orange at the back of the palate. Thereâs generosity and a lightly unctuous texture, but the acidity makes this appear only slightly off-dry. Drink now.
A delicate fumy herbal note from the fermentation does not obscure the pure lemon and lime fruit and hint of dusty crushed rocks. Terrific intensity and light-footed concentration, the balance between sour/acid and sweetness is perfect, with so much vitality, and precision on the long, fruity finish. The empty glass reveals all the stony mineral character that underlies the fruit. VGV (JH)