2018 Nuits St Georges Murgers

Wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis, red fruit compote, potpourri and smoked meats, the 2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers is medium to full-bodied, gourmand and textural, with a deep core of fruit framed by rich structuring tannins and ripe acids. This is a dramatic but nicely balanced Murgers from Hudelot-Noellat. Charles Van Canneyt has surpassed himself with the 2018 vintage, producing a set of wines that rivals his 2016s and 2015s as his finest to date. Deep, textural and incipiently complex, these are powerful but elegant wines that display a sense of energy and dynamism that some of the year's reds lack. Followers of Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat will be familiar with Van Canneyt's approach in the cuverie and cellar: The predominantly destemmed fruit, retained intact, is fermented in cement tanks for a classical maceration of two to three weeks. Élevage is in barrels emphasizing François Frères, with Cavin in a supporting role, and lasts fully 18 months with the exception of the Bourgogne Rouge, bottled before harvest. These in essence uncomplicated methods, combined with an enviable palette of appellations planted with notably old vines, produce elegant, charming wines with impressive substance and aging potential. I've been buying them for my own cellar since my student days, so this is an address I warmly recommend.