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Tasting notes
The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru displays a lot of whole bunch on the nose, but they seem to dominate the fruit profile and terroir, notwithstanding the mineralité . The palate is lighter, more elegant than others, avoiding the sweet ripe fruit of its peers, but it lacks a bit of purity and the stems seem too prominent on the finish. A kind of "clumsy success"? This will be a divisive Bonnes-Mares but its future is definitely uncharted. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin, Vinous
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
More reviews and scores
Delicious clear mid purple colour. There is some volatility on the nose alas, but also with a heady strawberry and fresh raspberry perfume. Fortunately the more volatile aspect soon blows off. Very clean and juicy on the palate, really quite fine with a gentle sweetness of red fruit. Fine tannins, enough acidity. Surprisingly unblockbusterish (apologies for the word) for the vintage. Without the slight element of volatility this would be a really striking wine and earn a higher rating.
A much more subtle though not invisible touch of oak surrounds the even more floral-inflected aromas of blue berry liqueur, anise, tea and newly turned earth. There is outstanding volume and mid-palate concentration thanks to the abundant dry extract that imparts a seductive quality to the mid-palate that contrasts considerably with the very, very structured and hugely long and powerful finish. This is an absolute knockout and would be a candidate for the Bonnes Mares of the vintage.
About the producer
Based south of Nuits-Saint-Georges in Prémeaux-Prissey, Domaine de la Vougeraie was created in 1999, grouping all of Jean-Claude Boisset’s holdings under one name. The property has a total 40 hectares of vines, with extensive holdings in Vougeot as well as plots in six Grands Crus.