2018 Heytesbury Chardonnay

Hand-harvested 8 Feb to 8 March 2018. Whole-bunch pressed. Spontaneous fermentation in barrel with very high solids. Average 630 NTU. Aged 9 months in French oak, of which 42% new. Seven months in tank after blending. TA 6.8 g/l, pH 3.19. Bottled June 2019. According to winemaker Virginia Willcock, everyone loved this vintage – the winemakers in particular because the fruit was so healthy and the weather so good that the viticulturists were not pressuring them to harvest.  Seductively smoky struck-match aroma but so beautifully done that it doesn't obscure the fruit. Fragrant with both citrus and a light floral note and yet steely/mineral too – quite an achievement to have both. Creamy, so finely textured with a very slight tannic grip adding to the freshness. Immense length and depth of fruit. Great power and distinction. Mushroom risotto needed for this, or roast chicken. (JH)

Limpid yellow. Vibrant, gently oak-spiced aromas of fresh citrus and orchard fruits, along with suggestions of anise and smoky minerals. Stains the palate with concentrated yet lively Meyer lemon, Anjou pear and bitter quinine flavors that are sweetened by a subtle vanilla note. Shows superb clarity and minerally thrust on the strikingly long, focused finish, which leaves a suggestion of honeysuckle behind.

Virginia Willcock is very keen on her funky regime with indigenous yeast (some unique to Western Australia according to AWRI research). So they ferment all parcels native and separately. She assures us she is looking for acid and texture. Heytesbury is ‘a unique proposition’, according to Willcock. She thinks 2018 is probably one of the finest Heytesbury Chardonnays. There's a certain sweetness on the nose but then salinity on the palate. Saline because of proximity to the ocean? Still very youthful. More citrus and tarter than the average white burgundy (80% went through malo). Great mix of richness and delicacy. Transparent and with a really, really pronounced saline finish. (JR)