2015 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura

Tasted blind. Mid to deep ruby. Lifted pine and cherry nose, which is quite seductive. The supple cherry fruit is not entirely coming out yet and at the moment seems a little suppressed by the oak. Long finish with rather subdued fruit. Quite ambitious but the approach may work out with more bottle age. (WS)

The Castello Banfi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura offers a distinct identity that is recognized by the natural thickness and density of the wine. Warm vintage conditions in 2015 that favor more concentrated fruit make this even more apparent. However, the palate is relatively mild mannered and tight. Black fruit, plum and blackberry roll off the tongue. Those fruity tones are followed by dark spice, balsam herb and a touch of savory barbecue spice. Unlike the classic Brunello from Castello Banfi, the Poggio alle Mura sees more contact with French barrique. Only 40% of the total is aged in botte, and 60% goes into smaller French barrels. The wine was bottled in April 2019 and will be released one year later in April 2020. Some 60,000 bottles were produced.

Lots of dried bark, cinnamon stick, forest floor and earth add to an impression of dried cherries and sandalwood. But there are also hints of caramelized oranges and preserved lemons. The attack on the palate takes immediate effect; the powerful tannins pucker the edges of the mouth with imposing depth, but equally fascinating detail. This is a robust, take-no-hostages style of Brunello with a modern twist of finesse and tension. Drink from 2025.