2016 Clos Apalta

A few mature wines still survive from the period that Michel Rolland spent in Chile, including Clos Apalta (a blend of 64% Carménère, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot), demonstrating both the effectiveness and richness of the style. Taking an approach that suits the terroir of Apalta in Colchagua, this garnet-hued red offers ripe aromas of jam, camphor and bay leaf that guide the hints of blackberry and an elegant woodiness that encompasses notes of sandalwood and tobacco. A complex wine that reflects its oxidative aging process; after a while, black olives, musk and hazelnuts appear. It is rich on the palate with fine tannins and slightly intense woody notes. A long, mature, open and flavorsome finish.

The 2016 Clos Apalta is a blend of 64% Carménère (higher than in 2015), 19% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot hitting the scale at 15% alcohol with a pH of 3.7. The Carménère and Cabernet were planted ungrafted in 1920, and all the vineyards are organic and biodynamic (certified) and very low yielding. The hand-destemmed grapes fermented in oak vats and barriques (17%), and the wine went through malolactic and 26 months of aging in brand new French barriques. I've seen a great improvement in Carménère in Chile in the last few years, perhaps since they stopped wanting to grow it everywhere and focused on the places where it grows well, like the Apalta region. They have also learned to tame the green aromas, fierce tannins and alcohol and to produce much more harmonious reds, like this aromatic example that reveals spice, tobacco leaves, red fruit and floral notes without noticeable alcohol or excess ripeness. The oak is surprisingly well integrated for such a young wine, and there is harmony, concentration and balance to make it age in bottle for a long time. The palate is full-bodied, and the tannins are fine-grained and in balance with the rest of the components, coming through as a compact and powerful yet elegant red. This has to be one of the finest Clos Apaltas of all time. 62,356 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2018.

64% Carmenère, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot. The 2016 season began with a dry winter (484 mm v 610 mm on average between May and September). The heaviest rainfall was in August, with 239 mm. Spring was cooler and had more rainfall than normal, in particular from mid-September to mid-November, resulting in coulure and millerandage (poor fruit set). After fruit set, the estate noted a fall in yields due to loose, light bunches. Summer was particularly hot and dry. February 2016 was one of the hottest in recent years, with diurnal temperature variations approaching 30 °C (37.5 °C in the day and 7.7 °C at night). Temperatures fell significantly in March with the autumnal equinox, and April brought unusually heavy rainfall (117 mm from 14 to 17 March). In short, budding was delayed due to a cold spring and the arrival of El Niño. With delays to flowering and fruit set, the 2016 season saw most phenological stages lagging behind, but a hot summer with excellent conditions helped to produce beautiful grapes. Harvest 18 March to 28 April. Deep purple. Very sweet and ripe on the nose – almost animal. Very sweet indeed with a little green streak. A more awkward, less-integrated wine than the Petit Clos. Rather heavy, hot finish and drying tannins on the end. Looks more youthful than the Petit Clos. (JR)