2012 Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets

Domaine Lamy-Caillat's 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets wafts from the glass with aromas of pear, pastry cream, citrus pith, toasted nuts and oatmeal, framed by very light reduction. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and powerful, with an expansively glossy attack and excellent mid-palate concentration and almost chewy extract, while avoiding the tendency to flabbiness that some of the 2012 white Burgundies are beginning to display from bottle. This doesn't attain the textural elegance and sense of completeness that Sébastien's more recent vintages reveal, but it's an excellent rendition of Les Caillerets.