2009 Bacharacher Hahn Auslese

Representing primarily the botrytis bunches and parts of bunches that were culled during the harvest of the corresponding Grosses Gewachs, the Jost 2009 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Auslese exudes ripe white peach, apricot, and mango, tinged with caramel, yet remaining infectiously juicy. Combining opulence, glycerin-rich gloss, and lift in the manner of the corresponding Spatlese, this preserves a superb sense of primary fruit juiciness, while adding caramel, honey, and spice from botrytis as well as a saliva-inducing salinity that carries through its lusciously long, next sip-enticing finish. Plan to relish it over the next 15-20 years. For an account of some recent developments at this estate, please consult my report in issue 187. Interestingly, it was the wines from their Rheingau vineyards that suffered especially from sheer ripeness and consequent high alcohol; whereas the Josts’ best 2009s from their near-monopole Hahn escaped such difficulties and performed well indeed. Incidentally, every wine of the Josts’ save for their Grosse Gewachse – and that includes their two Pinots (which I don’t usually taste) – is now closed with screwcap, and they are among several growers I spoke with who intend to bottle their Grosse Gewachse with screwcap as well, as soon as the relevant bottles are available with the embossed Arabic numeral “1” and stylized grape cluster that identifies this category. Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463