2017 Vargellas Vinha Velha
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Tasting notes
The 2017 Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port is a field blend of typical grapes (like Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca) aged for 20 months in French wood. It comes in with 105 grams of residual sugar. When last seen, this was only a tank sample. A darker flavor profile than the regular Taylor's, more leaning to plums and blackberries, this shows all that great Taylor's fruit and welds it to a serious backbone. The regular Taylor's seems a bit brighter, while this seems a bit sterner and richer, but at this point in their very young lives, I am not sure there is a lot to choose from qualitatively. That may change, in favor of this, I think, as they go further into their very long lives. Today, there isn't much to separate them except style and price. I'd take this, both for the style and the upside potential, but the price spike is certainly worth noting for many, while the qualitative difference is nominal.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Taylor’s Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port represents only the eighth release. It comes from 80 to 120-year old vines located in five parcels (Polverinho, Renova do Depósito, Renova do Armazém, Gricha and Vinha Grande) that were picked from September 1. It has a ripe and sensual, playful bouquet with ripe fig and damson bursting from the glass. Fine definition here, real depth and complexity as it reveals subtle melted tar and bayleaf aromas with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. This feels lush and rounded with black pepper, clove and tobacco notes infusing the black fruit, long and sensual towards the finish. Perhaps I have a slight preference for the regular Taylor’s, but this is going to be fascinating to monitor during its evolution in bottle. Total production is 5,600 bottles.
Aromas of dark berries, wet earth and dried flowers follow through to a full body, medium sweet and lots of intense and powerful tannins that are extremely fine-grained. Goes on for minutes. Polished and sophisticated young vintage Port. Lovely old vine Port. Try after 2027.
The 2017 Taylor’s Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port represents only the eighth release. It comes from 80 to 120-year old vines located in five parcels (Polverinho, Renova do Depósito, Renova do Armazém, Gricha and Vinha Grande) that were picked from September 1. It has a ripe and sensual, playful bouquet with ripe fig and damson bursting from the glass. Fine definition here, real depth and complexity as it reveals subtle melted tar and bayleaf aromas with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. This feels lush and rounded with black pepper, clove and tobacco notes infusing the black fruit, long and sensual towards the finish. Perhaps I have a slight preference for the regular Taylor’s, but this is going to be fascinating to monitor during its evolution in bottle. (NM) 96+