2017 Kevin John Chardonnay
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Tasting notes
The 2017 Kevin John Chardonnay hails from a cool, wet vintage in Margaret River, one that has played out very well in the white wines in particular. Here, the wine leads with notes of honeycomb and beeswax, yellow flowers, white peach, Golden Delicious apple and brine. In the mouth, the wine is showing attractive development, and it looks both complete and harmonious, with the power of the fruit concentrated on the back of the palate. 13.8% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. According to the technical booklet provided by Cullen during the tasting, 2017 was a cooler-than-average season, with a traditional wet winter, followed by slightly colder-than-average spring and summer temperatures. This allowed for excellent canopy growth and good, slow accumulation of flavor and ripeness in the fruit, maintaining well-composed acidity and resulting in brilliantly balanced fruit naturally. The fruit for this wine was hand-harvested from the Cullen vineyard from February 8 to March 6, with very low yields of 3.2 tons per hectare. The grapes were whole-bunch pressed and fermented with wild yeast in different vessels: barriques, amphorae and ceramic egg. The wine underwent natural malolactic fermentation prior to receiving five months of maturation in French oak, of which 30% was new.
Critic scores
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Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Pale gold. Powerful aromas of fresh peach, pear nectar and jasmine, along with suggestions of vanillin oak, saffron and smoky minerals. Fleshy and seamless in texture, showing superb depth as well as energy to the juicy orchard and pit fruit flavors. Finishes silky, tightly focused and impressively long, with repeating vanilla and mineral notes and a bracing suggestion of bitter lemon pith.
Gingin clones, 43-year-old vines growing on gravel loam duplex. 1,550 vines/ha, yield 3.2 t/ha. Whole-bunch basket pressed. 100% natural fermentation then five months in 30% new oak puncheons and barriques. pH 3.2, TA 6.3 g/l. Crème pâtissière, broad nose. Sui generis. Lots of bite and wild flowers and no obvious alcohol. Long. So vibrant. Some people might see it as too fat on the basis of its initial impression but then it winds itself up beautifully tightly on the end. (JR)
A coolish vintage. Aged for five months in French oak (30% new). Tight but with real density and structure. Lots of green fruit character. Broad, fully ripe fruit but with lots of acidity too. Crystalline texture. (JR)