2011 Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Nuages

Sourced, as it was last year, from Adams, Lia’s and Olenik Vineyards – all adjacent to J. Christopher’s facilities, and reflecting their straddling of the volcanic-sedimentary soil interface as well their relative warmth – the 2011 Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Nuages delivers pungent blond tobacco and fresh ginger in the nose as well as on a bright but silken palate, inflecting fresh, succulent cherry and purple plum, and underlain by both suggestions of chalk and a mouthwatering evocation of marrow-rich beef stock. In Burgundian terms, I imagine this as a Morey-St.-Denis, halfway between Chambolle’s high-toned, spicy brightness and the deep cherry and meatiness of Gevrey. Interestingly, while he agonized over the corresponding Dundee Hills bottling, Somers says one blending session and this Nuages was definitively done. This will likely continue to delight through at least 2018. Jay Somers – for much more about whom, and about his J. Christopher project with the Mosel’s Ernie Loosen, consult my Issue 202 account – picked from October 21 through November 2, 2011. He chaptalized certain lots – though not those from the estate’s immediate Calkins Lane neighborhood – and finished alcohols vary between 12.8% and 13.2%. As usual here, an extremely restrained regimen of punch-downs or pump-overs prevails. All of the Pinots received – and typically will receive in future – one-quarter each of new, once, twice, and thrice previously used barrels, so as to put the emphasis on terroir character, while keeping other things close to equal. A full tier of A.V.A.-designates was bottled, which – as with the vineyard-designates – did not occur until April and May of this year. “I’ve been making wine here (in the Willamette) for a long time,” says Somers, “and something I’ve learned is that we have cool vintages from time to time” – prior to 2010 he adduces 1997, his second commercial vintage – “and my feeling is that you have to go with the vintage, and not try to screw with it too much trying to make the wine what you want to make, but something it’s not.” As Somers remarked to me apropos his A.V.A. series – though this could be applied to all his work – “We’re not constructing wine, but representing something with it.” Incidentally, the first two barrels of Pinot came off of the two-year-old estate vineyard in 2012, likely destined for that vintage’s Chehalem A.V.A. blend, with the return of Appassionata (the name formerly used for a late-bottled, late released cuvee, henceforth for the estate vineyard) likely to come with 2013. Tel. (503) 554-9572