2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

A darker garnet/red color, the 2010 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva is classic to a T, with aromas of graphite, sanguine blood orange, dried cherries, espresso, and as it opens, it turns to more kirsch as well as dried roses and worn leather. Medium-bodied, but chiseled in structure, with ripe, refreshing tannins, a fantastic balanced structure, andnotes of Mediterranean herbs, it floats on the palate for a long time with all its hallmark components intertwining. A gorgeous wine that’s just starting to show what it is capable of, this is a phenomenal benchmark wine for the ages. Drink 2024-2054. Stunning. The wines for this report were tasted in January 2024 at the estate with Federico Radi, the Viticulture and Winemaking Director. While the sale of the estate to French group Epi is still fresh on many consumer minds, one thing is certain – Radi is committed to taking this estate into the future while retaining the DNA of Biondi-Santi. His humility and dedication to the greater purpose of the estate is palpable, and as his wines are beginning to come into the market (Radi joined the producer in 2017), there’s a lot to be excited about, despite his not wanting to make a fuss over his own efforts. As of this year, they have planted new vines on the property, between their iconic Cypress-lined entrance and the Pian Dell’Orino estate next door. They have worked the land to create a terraced vineyard, both to preserve water retention and to prevent erosion. In recent years they have also partnered with consultant Pedro Parra to continue to explore their soil structures and parcels further.

Wow, hauntingly dark and earthy yet in the best possible way, the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva La Storica entices with an array of mentholated herbs and earth tones, tobacco, steeped plums and exotic spice. This is elegance personified with cooling minerality and bright acidity that adds an abundance of energy as crisp red fruits flow across the palate with ease. It finishes remarkably fresh yet leaves a saturation of primary fruits as rosy inner florals and hints of blood orange fade. This is impressively energetic for the vintage, plus showing beautifully today after just an hour of being open in the bottle.

Full bottle 1,364 g. Cork crumbled so I had to fine-filter and decant this, leaving stains for the first time on our white counter-top, the first wine ever to do so, including young vintage port ! Mid ruby. Not nearly as bright and compelling on the nose as the Rosso di Montalcino 2020 tasted alongside. But on the palate it’s much denser and more complex with layers of liquorice and leather and a peacock’s tail of fruit that emerges only on the end, only to be completed by quite a swathe of tannins. Still quite hard work! Though it does go on and on … It improved in the decanter and developed spearmint notes. (JR)