2016 Volnay Clos des Chenes

(the Bouleys own a parcel of 50-to-55-year-old vines in the windy northern part of the cru that mostly avoided the frost in 2016; almost entirely destemmed): Full, deep red. Aromas of dark cherry and black raspberry are complemented by a musky oak element. Concentrated, rich and sweet, displaying an old-vines density to its flavors of cherry and saline minerality. This nuanced wine seems a bit less austere than usual but is nonetheless a more powerful style than the Carelles. Finishes with ripe tannins, subtle persistence and noteworthy grip.

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes has a rather aloof bouquet at first and only reluctantly offers slightly rustic red berry fruit that gains harmony and poise with aeration. There is a light damp woodland aroma here, decaying autumn leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, nicely poised, very classic in style with a mixture of red and black fruit, undergrowth and just a touch of tobacco toward the finish. This will require 3 or 4 years in barrel. Excellent.