2017 Felseneck Auslese

Honeysuckle and lily, ripe pear and white peach on the nose presage a succulent and billowing-floral impression on a silken, glycerol-slicked palate. Like its Kabinett and Spätlese counterparts from the present collection, this delivers superb persistence of fruit essences and wafting floral perfume while remaining transparent to stony mineral nuances and benefiting from an enlivening and refreshing burst of fresh lime. Nips of incisive cress, zesty lime peel and piquant pear pip add invigorating counterpoint to the vibrant, luscious and buoyant finish. Around 20% of the grapes for this were shriveled, reports Fröhlich, yet virtually botrytis-free; and the rows in question were picked without selection. (375 ml.)