2017 Wolfer Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett 04 18
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Tasting notes
White peach and lemon signaled on the nose are joined on a firm but delicate palate by nettle and lemon zest prickle, compounded by glowing piquancy of peach kernel and lemon seed. The aforementioned features, taken together with 45 grams of residual sugar and bright juiciness of lemon, make for a sense of sweet-sour tension that is edgy but also invigorating. The finish is buoyant and refreshing. It will be interesting to witness whether bottle age conveys a bit of harmony and a mineral dimension. (For more about this unusual site well back from the Mosel’s Right Bank, consult my account of the corresponding 2015.)
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Wolfer Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett is provided with ripe and concentrated fruit and opens to a pure, slatey and floral nose. The palate is rich, intense, fleshy, very aromatic, elegant and salty-piquant, and the well-structured finish balances the sweetness of 54 grams perfectly. This is a charming, reductive-styled Mosel Kabinett classic that should be served in 10 years. Tasted in March 2019.
RS 45 g/l. Riper and spicier than the trocken version and a good bit sweeter, giving a sweet/sour impression at the moment along with sustained citrus purity. Perhaps a touch of smoky reduction at the moment. (JH)