2018 Ch. Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse

The 10th vintage under the Nicolas Thienpont team, and as it has turned out the penultimate one. Impossible to leave out of my top 50 for laying down because this is easily one of the wines of the vintage, and should form part of any cellar that is looking to reflect the best of 2018. Black cherry and damson fruit roll out layer upon layer, with slate, crushed rocks and baked earth ensuring the progress through the palate is slow and steady, with mouthwatering freshness building up as you go. It's serious and needs time, but it's fantastic, and takes you right inside this discreet corner of the St Emilion limestone plateau. Half the normal yield, down in the mid-20hl/h.

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Beausejour Heritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse comes prancing out of the glass with the most gorgeous perfume of plum preserves, kirsch, redcurrant jelly and red roses, followed by suggestions of molten licorice, raspberry leaves, oolong tea and iron ore, with a waft of forest floor. The medium to full-bodied palate is laden with black and red berry preserves layers, framed by fantastically plush tannins and a seamless backbone, finishing long and earthy. A wine of impeccable poise and polish, it is delicious now, but allow it 3-4 years in bottle to really fan its feathers and drink it over the next 20 years or more.

The 2018 Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse showed what I felt was a soupçon of overripeness on the nose when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle, there is still a scintilla of that trait in the plush, high-toned black cherry and crème de cassis scents, very opulent but at least pure. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe, saturated tannins that lend a fleshy, succulent mouthfeel. It is less viscous than I anticipated, though I still feel it needs more complexity toward the finish. As I remarked a few months ago, between Nicolas Thienpont’s Pavie-Macquin and this, I find the former is imbued with more tension and terroir expression, although I still enjoy this Saint-Émilion and appreciate the black pepper note that lingers on the aftertaste.