2017 Cornas Vieilles Vignes

The 2017 Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes is cut from the same mold yet has a touch more tannins as well as mid-palate density. Notes of crème de cassis, blueberries, camphor, toasted spice, and smoked game all soar from the glass, and it's full-bodied, power-packed, yet elegant and seamless on the palate. Its wealth of fruit largely conceals plenty of underlying structure, and while it's already fun to taste, give bottles 4-5 years and enjoy over the following 10-15 years or more. The old vine cuvée comes from the Combe, Patou, La Côte, Les Mazards, and Chaillot lieu-dits, from 60+-year-old vines, was 80% destemmed and spent 20 months in 15-20% new French oak. While Albéric Mazoyer continues to lend a hand here, Lionel Fraisse is now firmly in charge and is doing a fabulous job. Despite leading with their fruit, these are classic, traditionally made wines that come from great terroirs, are mostly destemmed, and are brought up in primarily neutral barrels.

Bottled in June 2019, the 2017 Cornas Vieilles Vignes still seemed shut down when I tasted it, marked by cedary oak and mixed berry flavors. It's full-bodied and silky-textured, framed by surprisingly tart acids on the long, crisp finish. Worth noting is that this includes the fruit that normally goes into the les Vieilles Fontaines, as that wine was not bottled in 2017. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

Deep, vivid magenta. Mineral- and smoke-accented dark berries, licorice and candied flowers on the highly perfumed nose, along with a cracked pepper nuance that lends spicy lift. Offers densely packed, subtly sweet cherry and blueberry flavors that are supported by an undercurrent of smoky minerality that provides back-end cut. Shows a sexy floral quality on the persistent finish, which is shaped by smooth, harmonious tannins